How To Treat St. Clair Specimens

[Haddy]

I went to St. Clair on Sunday and had a great time. Brought back lots of good specimens. However, the rock is very sooty -- when you touch it, your hands get black. Also, I'm concerned about preserving the white and orange coloring. I'd also like to give a couple of specimens to relatives who don't collect, and it would be nice to give them something sealed that they won't have to worry about.

One person said that he sprays PVC and alcohol mixed on them, then brushes the same solution on later. Someone else said that they weren't happy with that type of treatment. Any other suggestions? Thanks.

[Guest Smilodon]

I went to St. Clair on Sunday and had a great time. Brought back lots of good specimens. However, the rock is very sooty -- when you touch it, your hands get black. Also, I'm concerned about preserving the white and orange coloring. I'd also like to give a couple of specimens to relatives who don't collect, and it would be nice to give them something sealed that they won't have to worry about.

One person said that he sprays PVC and alcohol mixed on them, then brushes the same solution on later. Someone else said that they weren't happy with that type of treatment. Any other suggestions? Thanks.

Sue,

I meant to mention that somebody in DVPS used to shrink wrap them!

[Uncle Siphuncle]

I used artist's spray, available at Hobby Lobby, Michael's or any artsy store. It is the clear spray used to set drawings etc. that could otherwise smear.

[Haddy]

Thanks.

My neighbor, an artist, gave me a couple cans of Krylon Workable Fixatif 1306 (prevents smudging, allows easy rework). Would this be the product you use?

Another poster uses PVA mixed with alcohol.

[Fossildude19]

Haddy,

Thanks for bringing up a question I was going to ask!! I was wondering about what other people use, also!!!

I didn't like how a wash with watered down elmer's glue came out.

Danwoehr

Thanks for the hobby spray suggestion - I will try that next on my ST. Clair stuff!!

Smilodon,

Shrink wrap?!? Very neat idea - I'll have to give that one a try, too!! Thank you!

I love that this forum gives out such great info! You guys rock!

[Haddy]

I searched through this site to see if there was anything on preserving St. Clair slate as it's different from other slates because it's very sooty and rubs off when you touch it. And there's pyrite involved, which has it's own set of issues. Nada. Then I searched for floor polish -- it seems that a couple of members like that solution. I'll try a couple of different things and post the results in a few days. So, I'll copy what I found here:

I have not applied the hardner yet, but I use Future liquid floor wax. It hardens the sand matrix and keeps the block together. I also give a very thin coat of Future on the fossils themselves. I have some specimens that are around 21 years old now with Future on them and they are doing great. I apply the Future with an eye dropper onto the matrix latting it sink in, then apply some more latter before the first application dries. I do this usually three times. For the actual specimens, I lightly brush on the Future with a fine hair artist brush.

N.AL.hunter

also used Future on my Calvert Cliffs shells in Matrix. I try not to let it dry out completely before adding the Future. I did experience one problem with two Calvert specimens.. the Future turned milky looking on the specimens right when I placed it on them, but I noticed this and was able to gently rub the surfaces with my fingers which took away the milky color but left a protective coat on the specimen. I have never tried the fridge thing. Just keeping them in a baggie should do it.

I have prepped very old, dried out specimens with no problems too. Just have to start with one coat of Future first to hold things together a little.

Future Floor Polish link: http://www.swannysmo...leteFuture.html

I'd read about sealing fossils with Future on this site but was unable to find it in the store. This article tells why, but the bottom line is that they've changed the name. In the USA, it's "Pledge with Future Shine" and I found it at Walmart for about $5.60. Apparently modelers all over the world like this product as well, and the article gives its various new names and places to purchase it in many countries. Which reminds me, I have a project to do....

That was my thought also. Pyrite reacts with water. Just the moisture in the air is enough to do it over time. The smaller the pyrite crystal, the more surface area and it will react quicker.

Most of my limestone and shale material is fairly heavy in pyrite and I apply a coat of Krylon (matte typically, gloss if you prefer) and I dilute it with acetone. Apply it a brush. I can spray it from the can undiluted, but it goes on too thick for my taste.

Another option is to seal them, it is relatively permanent. I use the cheapest spray on clearcoat that wal-mart carries, it is thinner, so you get better penetration.

Brent Ashcraft

The finish on that specimen is clear marble floor wax..... Its the only thing Ive found that doesnt 'taint' the natural colour or sheen of the calcite shell.....I know a lot of people use artists varnish.....If you have any specific questions, feel free to contact me.... by Terry Dactyll

[Shamalama]

My personal choice is to leave the specimens without any preservant. I give them a light rinse to get the extra dust and carbon off and let them dry completely before storing. The white mineral (Pyrophyllite I believe) can flake off but it seems to be related to moisture content and how long it was exposed to the weather. I've seen some pieces that have been exposed for some time with white on them still and others that the white just turned to powder.

[Uncle Siphuncle]

Take one of your lesser pieces and spray it. If you like the results, roll with it. What most collectors try to avoid is an overprocessed looking, glossy sheen. Stabilized fossils that look natural get the nod from most collectors.

[Haddy]

My personal choice is to leave the specimens without any preservant. I give them a light rinse to get the extra dust and carbon off and let them dry completely before storing. The white mineral (Pyrophyllite I believe) can flake off but it seems to be related to moisture content and how long it was exposed to the weather. I've seen some pieces that have been exposed for some time with white on them still and others that the white just turned to powder.

Thanks! One of the guys who was with us said he always leaves his au naturel also. I'm concerned about the white rubbing off with fingers poking at it. Do you rinse under running water or immersion (or even both)?

Dan, Thanks. I looked at the Krylon site and they have a number of products that might work (http://www.krylon.com/products/categories/artist_clear_coatings/). I tried the one I was given, #1306, on a give-away and it seemed pretty good but too shiny. However, it's perfect for the person I'm going to give it to so that little hands won't muck it up. It seemed to seal in the soot so that it won't rub off when handling also, but I haven't been back out to the garage in a while. I am going to buy a cheap alternative to see if that's less shiny.

[Auspex]

It won't stand up to much handling, but have you tried hair spray?

[Haddy]

It won't stand up to much handling, but have you tried hair spray?

No, I haven't tried that. Of the 2 things I tried today (stone / granite counter spray wax and the Krylon 1306), I liked the Krylon better as it goes on smoother and dries more quickly although it's shinier than the wax. I purchased some Krylon Clear acrylic in a spray can tonight that I'll try on another sample tomorrow.

My friends and neighbors have really liked the specimens I've shown them so far; they've never seen anything like them.

[Herb]

Hair spray works pretty good and seals the flakey pieces together, Don't put it on too heavy though. Might yellow a little bit after a few years

[erose]

My St Clair material, collected almost ten years ago, is generally still in fine shape. The Pryophllite is fine but in some cases the shale itself has dried out and is crumbling. I may need to inject a consolidant or super glue. The specimens had been wrapped in newspaper or bubble wrap, trucked across the country and stored in my hot-as-heck Texas garage. They are on there way into the house now and will be dealt with as I catalog them.

Personally I would not cover them with anything. But it sounds like you were making one specimen "kid friendly" and in that case the effort is well worth it if it inspires some young minds.

I can also tell you that whenever I see St Clair slabs in rock shops they are au natural. No sprays, wax or hair spray.

[Boneman007]

I have used Future floor was on coon Creek material with excellent results!

It consolidates loose matrix as well as giving a nice sheen to the material (coon Creek material isn't fossilized, but it is 68 myo).

I have pieces that are over 10 years old, and they still look perfect without any yellowing.

For my Kansas and Texas material, I use butvar or paleobond products.

For spanning large gaps, I always use Paleobond Jurrasic Gel. It can be instantly set, while assembling a large piece. It can also be sanded and painted. For color, I put some flakes of the fossil into a blender and turn it to dust, then mix it with the Jurrasic Gel for a perfect color match!

Edited March 23, 2012 by Boneman007