Paleobond

[karnuvore]

Does anyone here use this product? If so, could you tell me what I would need to order? I went to their webpage and the options were so vast that I decided to come here and ask the experts what they are using. I saw a 'starter kit', but I figured someone here could probably give me the "just buy (insert product) and follow the directions" deal.

I just want to preserve some of my better teeth/bones and see if I can make them shine a little more.

Or maybe I am barking up the wrong tree and should use some other product. Any suggestions would help.

Thanks.

[Auspex]

N.AL.Hunter swears by Future floor polish, diluted with water as necessary to achieve the required penetration, and with successive coats to achieve the required stabilization.

[Metopocetus]

Anything more than the penetrant is meant to be a glue, PB40 is very thin, a good glue for very clean breaks up to PB1500 which is for larger breaks. The putty and gel are even thicker which you of course wouldn't want.

I would get a sample bottle of the penetrant stablizer and apply it to some of your bones that your aren't too concerned about to see what changes in color will happen. With the fossils I use it on it usually makes the bone a little darker than the surrounding area. I've used it to stablize whale bones that we have excavated from the cliffs. Get some debonder too, once it sticks it is hard to get off (fingers to tools).

I've never tried what Auspex said but it may give you the desired look and preservation you are looking for.

[ebrocklds]

paleobond is a cyanoacrylate glue, (superglue) it comes in diferent thicknesses that are used for different purposes. thick is for gluing rough breaks. thin for hairline cracks and consolidating fragile or porus material. it your fossils are not at rick of crubling or breaking easily you probably don't need a cyano acrylate. if you decide to get some use this website as they are cheapr than paleobond www.ptscoshop.com

for a bit of a shine i use vinac or paraloid which are both plastic beads dissolved in acetone. less beads less shine and thinner. this can also be used as a consolidant like the thin glue but is much easier to reverse. these products are also knowna as polyvinyl acetates.

hope this helps.

Brock

[karnuvore]

Thanks guys..

Sounds like I was barking up the wrong tree.

I might try the ' solution' and use the floor wax. That sounds like me.

[snafu947]

For purely stabilizing, I use Paleobond Penetrant Stabilizer. Very, VERY thin in consistancy, it will seep into hairline cracks like Brock noted. Use caution though...it's thin enough to seep completely through a bone to another hairline crack you may not see, and next thing you know you are glued to a bone. It also tends to warm while stabilizing, and I've actually seen it blister a person's skin! There is also a wicked fume that burns the eyes.

As long as you are careful and use it in a somewhat ventilated spot, that should work on some of your more unstable pieces.

Another coating to go along with Brock's vinac or paraloid is acryloid. Same concept, just differnt make up of plastic.

Wm.T.

[smokey]

heres the best solution for bone and teeth. i got this off one of my artifact sites. this is what DR. Gomer uses

"We use Duco glue and Acetone for all our sealing needs both personally and for customers in the majority of situations. I am sending our sealing recipe for dried artifacts. The mixing can be changed if one prefers different finishes. The finish we prefer is basically obtained by mixing one tube of glue per a pint of Acetone. One gallon of Acetone plus 8 tubes of glue should give you enough solution to dip this artifact in. You leave the artifact in the solution until it quits fizzing or bubbling. When you take it out it will dry very quickly and can even be held while it dries. If one has any whitening to appear from moisture still trapped inside one can lightly wipe the areas with Acetone to get rid of. This sealing will not change the looks of the artifact. So however it looks now that is how it will look when done. Only if it is dipped more than once will the outside finish change. Hope this helps. If it ends up being more than you bargained for we can do it for you".....Gomer

"The Duco glue is sold at Wal-Marts, etc. It is in a green and yellow colored tube and costs about $1.29 a tube. This gives pretty much exactly the same results as Butvar and Acetone that Universities use. Butvar leaves a nasty shiny look to everything you use it on! Use the duco acetone mix!".

[Guest Cris]

heres the best solution for bone and teeth. i got this off one of my artifact sites. this is what DR. Gomer uses

"We use Duco glue and Acetone for all our sealing needs both personally and for customers in the majority of situations. I am sending our sealing recipe for dried artifacts. The mixing can be changed if one prefers different finishes. The finish we prefer is basically obtained by mixing one tube of glue per a pint of Acetone. One gallon of Acetone plus 8 tubes of glue should give you enough solution to dip this artifact in. You leave the artifact in the solution until it quits fizzing or bubbling. When you take it out it will dry very quickly and can even be held while it dries. If one has any whitening to appear from moisture still trapped inside one can lightly wipe the areas with Acetone to get rid of. This sealing will not change the looks of the artifact. So however it looks now that is how it will look when done. Only if it is dipped more than once will the outside finish change. Hope this helps. If it ends up being more than you bargained for we can do it for you".....Gomer

"The Duco glue is sold at Wal-Marts, etc. It is in a green and yellow colored tube and costs about $1.29 a tube. This gives pretty much exactly the same results as Butvar and Acetone that Universities use. Butvar leaves a nasty shiny look to everything you use it on! Use the duco acetone mix!".

I emailed him for this a long time ago. I've used it and I think it works pretty good.