Sacha Posted September 13, 2014 Share Posted September 13, 2014 Hi sacha!!! I was told to try car wax on some of my pieces and although it helped it want what I was going for. Did you try anything and can you share the results? Hi Lissa! So far I've only stripped the tongue oil off the piece I'm reworking. I have not yet gotten a liquid floor wax to coat it with. I want it good and dry. I'm glad you mentioned the car wax though. I was looking at some I had and considered giving it a try. I'll pass on that for now. I've looked at Lowes for floor wax with no success, and will check Ace today, but I must be making this too hard. I may take one of the multitude of "Cleaners/preservers" and try it on a smaller piece to see what happens. I'll post pictures one way or another within a couple days. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmaier Posted September 13, 2014 Share Posted September 13, 2014 A word of warning... Putting one coating material on top of another one of different chemistry can sometimes cause a haze between the two layers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lissa318 Posted September 13, 2014 Share Posted September 13, 2014 Thanks for the warning tmair. Thankfully I didn't try the car wax on good pieces to start as I really don't like the results. A word of warning... Putting one coating material on top of another one of different chemistry can sometimes cause a haze between the two layers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lissa318 Posted September 13, 2014 Share Posted September 13, 2014 http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JUGQSLU/ref=redidp_mobile?m=A1NZNL68MMEYT4&ref_=aag_m_pw_dp Sacha, someone just recommended this to me. Polishes it naturally... She said she gets her finger wet, puts some of this powder on it and then uses a buffer attachment on her dremmel to polish. She said it works great and no unnatural residue is left. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sacha Posted September 13, 2014 Share Posted September 13, 2014 http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JUGQSLU/ref=redidp_mobile?m=A1NZNL68MMEYT4&ref_=aag_m_pw_dp Sacha, someone just recommended this to me. Polishes it naturally... She said she gets her finger wet, puts some of this powder on it and then uses a buffer attachment on her dremmel to polish. She said it works great and no unnatural residue is left. This looks like Al. Oxide or Tin Oxide or some similar mechanical polishing powder. That works on flat or simple convex surfaces and in tumblers (I use allot of in on my orbital lap and the tumblers I run), but would be a bear on convoluted surfaces like I have. I found liquid floor wax at Ace this morning. Turns out it is not water soluble, but it has a very thin consistency so I'm trying it straight-up. Not thrilled so far, but we'll see when it dries. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sacha Posted September 13, 2014 Share Posted September 13, 2014 Hi sacha!!! I was told to try car wax on some of my pieces and although it helped it want what I was going for. Did you try anything and can you share the results? Here are the first attempt with S C Johnson one step no buff wax. This is the piece as pulled from the river: Here's how it looks dry (but after removal of tongue oil): and here's how it looks coated: It's about 1/2 effective on areas not too damaged. I'll experiment further with wax thinned further with a solvent and see if it has any better potential. The feel of the piece after coating is not as artificial as with clear lacquer. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caldigger Posted September 13, 2014 Share Posted September 13, 2014 Speaking of car wax, most of your waxes off the shelf will have a bit of abrasive to some degree. I would give pure Carnuba wax a try. A bit more expensive but will not contain abrasive material. Why else would chauffer's trust this to their owners finest Rolls and Bentleys. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ptychodus04 Posted September 23, 2014 Share Posted September 23, 2014 First off, I've never coated any of my fossil... I like them au naturale. I agree, I only apply chemicals when required for preservation purposes, and then is is only Vinac or Butvar dissolved in acetone as it is 100% reversible and does not discolor with time. I have worked on specimens that had been HEAVILY coated with shellac and had discolored so badly that the gray shale matrix and the chocolate brown bones appeared to be the same light brown color. Yuck! 2 gallons of isopropyl alcohol, a box of shop towels, and a few weeks of soak, scrub, repeat and it was all gone!! Coatings are a preparator's worst nightmare... Regards, Kris Global Paleo Services, LLC https://globalpaleoservices.com http://instagram.com/globalpaleoservices http://instagram.com/kris.howe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lissa318 Posted September 25, 2014 Share Posted September 25, 2014 (edited) Sacha the color in your agate does show up better there! I was looking for a wet effect for a moss agate piece. There are classes here I want to take so didn't want anything permanent. Here's my issue. Dry pic... All three sides cloud like that that when dry. Here's 1 side wet. See what I mean? :/ Edited September 25, 2014 by lissa318 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lissa318 Posted September 25, 2014 Share Posted September 25, 2014 Wet and dry... Easy to tell the difference. I will probably do nothing until a future date. Would love to be able to see the moss in the meantime without wetting it though?! lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sacha Posted September 25, 2014 Share Posted September 25, 2014 Lissa, I think the wax would work well for you. The material should also polish well if you tumbled it. If you have allot of that stuff, send me a piece that I can cut a slab from. I'll cut a cabochon or 2 from it, depending on size and send them back. If you want, maybe make a pendant for you as well (if you like a freeform, non symmetric look). If working non-traditional forms and finishes now, so the pieces I'm trying to make are out of the ordinary. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lissa318 Posted September 25, 2014 Share Posted September 25, 2014 (edited) Sacha, what a fabulous offer and thanks! Unfortunately I THINK this is the only moss I have. It is pyramid shaped so fairly thick and wide at the base. I am totally out of my element and have lots of pieces I've sorted and now trying to ID. Alot of them are smaller. I have a lot of obsidian in various forms. Some of them I was told would be rainbow obsidian if cut a certain way... I believe I have quite a few sunset jaspers from Australia if the ID is right. And plenty more I'm trying to figure out?! Haha. I can send you a variety if you want. Here's some pics... Sunset japers I think... Obsidians That is one of the potential rainbow obsidians from what I was told. Quite a few of those. Edited September 25, 2014 by lissa318 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lissa318 Posted September 25, 2014 Share Posted September 25, 2014 (edited) Different obsidian Most shaped like this... The rest I am working on trying to ID. Including some slabs that may need cut as well. Overwhelming to say the least. The smaller ones including the moss (it is larger) are all end cuts so not in the best of shape?! lol Edited September 25, 2014 by lissa318 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sacha Posted September 26, 2014 Share Posted September 26, 2014 Cutting material like that is hard to identify, especially quartz family stuff because local or common names are frequently different depending on where you look. When you get things sorted out and if you have a small slab of something extra that also is a complementing color (black if you're a winter, rust/brown/gold if you're an autumn, etc) send it to me and I'll make something for you. Darker colors will contrast better with the silver piece. Please make sure you could live without it, because I have been known to completely destroy stone and melt silver to a blob when I'm working a piece. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kalo Posted September 26, 2014 Author Share Posted September 26, 2014 (edited) A thinned coat of 'Pledge Multi Surface Wax with Klear' should give you a low-luster, slightly-darkening effect. clear Pledge floor wax works well also. Unfortunately I cannot find things like these here in Sweden (probably there is somewhere), but friend of mine told me about carpentry glue mixed with water. On the picture below, the first image is original, the second is with the effect. I think the second one gives much better contrast of the details but you decide for your self... http://www.thefossilforum.com/uploads/gallery/album_2086/gallery_14166_2086_435254.jpg p.s. sorry, you can check the image from the link Edited September 26, 2014 by Kalo "In the beginning God..." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auspex Posted September 26, 2014 Share Posted September 26, 2014 The images: "There has been an alarming increase in the number of things I know nothing about." - Ashleigh Ellwood Brilliant “Try to learn something about everything and everything about something.” - Thomas Henry Huxley >Paleontology is an evolving science. >May your wonders never cease! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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